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Ty's 1996 4Runner "FARM TOY"

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Ty's 1996 4Runner "FARM TOY" Empty Ty's 1996 4Runner "FARM TOY"

Post by Ty Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:12 am

I guess I should get this posted before I get more rude threads comparing my runner to a Jeep Sad

1996 Runner

Nothing fancy
3.5" custom lift
bald 285/75r16 BFG a/t's w/ 2"spacers
Rear E-locker
deck plate mod
Breather extention mod
Silencer mod

Plans:

Winter 2013 SAS
5.29 gears
front E-locker
315/75r16 treadrights (unless I get lucky and win some like Kevin)
Custom front and rear bumpers
#9500 winch

Ty's 1996 4Runner "FARM TOY" Dscn0118mv

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Ty's 1996 4Runner "FARM TOY" Dscn3047q


Last edited by Ty on Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:24 am; edited 6 times in total
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Post by Kevin Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:15 am

Thardy wrote:I guys I should get this posted before I get more rude threads comparing my runner to a Jeep Sad

The nerve! Who would do such a thing?
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Post by dutchman Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:54 pm

I've seen the build thread on RME, but it's good to see yours on here. Sign me up to help with the SAS when it comes time.

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Post by Ty Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:57 am

dutchman wrote: Sign me up to help with the SAS when it comes time.

Sounds good man. Its probably not going to be any time soon. I have the axle and steering box but really want to have it completely ready when it goes under. which means I have to save for crap like gears, e-locker, DOM for the links, new oil pan and pick up, and so forth. Unless I break something in the mean time I don't think it will happen until next fall/winter. I would like to have it done before Moab next Thanksgiving, but that might be pushing it.
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Post by Ty Thu Sep 20, 2012 2:21 am

So i am going to start compiling a list of what I am going to need to do this SAS. So far I have the axle, the steering box, if I decide to go leafs then I have the leafs.

Here is what I can think of off the top of my head.

E-locker $755 4wheel parts
Gears Front Dana 44 (538) $162 Randys ring and pinion
Gears Rear Toyota (529) $182 Randys ring and pinion
Oil pan conversion kit $225 Low Range Offroad


I know there will be a lot more so if there is something you can think of post it up so I can have everything ready when the time comes.
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Post by dutchman Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:30 am

What gear ratio are you going with?

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Post by Ty Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:41 am

The plan for now is 5.38 up front and 5.29 in the rear. where I'm going with a Dana 44 up front I can't match anything above 4.88. So I have done a lot of research on the subject and found that as long as you stay within .10 you are fine. A lot of guys that use a Dana Yota combo use this gear combo.
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Post by Kevin Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:09 am

Is that just because you have the 44, or do you prefer it over a Cruiser axle?
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Post by Ty Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:16 am

3 reasons why I prefer the 44 over the cruiser axle.

#1. Price and availability, they are not cheap and hard to fine.
#2. I have the 44 already and width and lug pattern match.
#3. The cruiser axle still drops on the passenger side where the 3rd gen runner drops driver.
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Post by dutchman Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:29 pm

Just so you know... there's an ugly white sticker on your driver side fender...

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Post by Ty Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:37 pm

Below the belt brother below the belt!
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Post by Kevin Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:12 am

So I'm curious, you're planning on 35s, right? With the 3.4, do you really need 5.29/5.38s to spin those? Or could you get away with 4.88s?

I ran a couple trails with 4.10 in front and 4.30 in the back, and it was doable but I didn't like it at all.
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Post by Ty Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:19 am

Power wise I could do 4.88, but with no transfer case gear down options I would just like it lower. I've been told that if your only .1 different you won't even notice. Anything over that and you get push.

Now for my problem. I am getting a new tow rig and trailer so I'm not so urgent to keep the runner street legal. Should I stick with the axles I have or should I list them for sale and build the 44 front 60 rear full width combo I had for my scout?
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Post by Kevin Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:26 am

Personally I'd do everything I could to keep it street legal, but I'm a big fan of a->b type trips where a tow rig wouldn't work out.

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Post by Ty Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:45 am

That's true. It is still a ways down the road so just kicking around ideas. I will be wider when I go to 35's and I could get some wheels with less back spacing
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Post by Kevin Wed Oct 24, 2012 7:29 am

I've got a sawzall and an angle grinder, Ty, and as long as it's your truck I ain't afraid to use 'em. Let's get busy. Twisted Evil
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Post by Ty Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:41 am

Let me mole over it a bit but I think that is the direction I am going to go. I will let you know when I decide to do it. The problem is I have have to have it accessable for if I sell my truck before I can get my dads. So it will most likely happen the first of the year.
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Post by dutchman Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:16 am

I like banging and cutting metal! cheers

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Post by Andrew Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:59 am

Forget the SAS for now -- I like the idea of using your funds for a doubler, instead.
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Post by Ty Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:04 am

About how much is a doubler going to run me? Should I start selling off SAS parts to fund it? I can always find another front axle down the road and when I do go SAS I may go full width. What's your thoughts?
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Post by Kevin Wed Oct 24, 2012 12:36 pm

Thardy wrote:About how much is a doubler going to run me? Should I start selling off SAS parts to fund it? I can always find another front axle down the road and when I do go SAS I may go full width. What's your thoughts?

$600 or so for the transmission adapter, $300 for the transfer case adapter, two early Yota transfer cases (one of which must be top shift) will run you at least $200. Twinstick setups are around $150 new I think, and then you've got to cut out your tunnel and install the new sticks, then don't forget driveline work because you need a longer front and shorter rear shaft. I dunno how much that goes but I bet it's another couple hundred at least...

Steve says $1500 for his, but I think you'd be lucky to finish under $2000 when you're said and done, and that's assuming you don't go 4.7 gears in one case. Personally, I'm going to start with just the 4.7 gears in the transfer case and see how I like that. If you did that, you could skip the transfer case adapter and tunnel/driveline work, but you'd still need the transmission adapter and one early tcase, plus the $500 for the 4.7 gears. It ain't cheap, any way you slice it.
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Post by Andrew Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:43 pm

The "TacoBox" gives you duals using your factory t-case:

Dual case unit mc09-t360

$1,695 for 2.28
$1,995 for 4.7

You'd end up with Tranny(adapter)crawlbox(adapter)chain-driven t-case(driveline).

The problem with going to "true" gear-driven duals is that your front output shaft is going to end up on the passengers side (your's is on the drivers side right now). UNLESS, you go with "LEFTY"...

Lefty
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Post by Ty Wed Oct 24, 2012 4:38 pm

I was thinking of doing the same set up as Steve. I think I might be able to come up with a tcase. I just need to save for the adapters. And 4.7 gears. If I'm going to do it I'm going to do it right. How does the "tacobox" work? Is it a two stick or does it just lower my low range? I am new to this thinking.
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Post by Andrew Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:08 pm

Here's a better explanation of what you get from Marlin's website:

"This is a Ready-To-Run fully assembled Dual Case Crawl Box for 1995-2004 4WD Tacoma's and 4Runner's. This Crawl Box bolts between your factory transmission and chain drive transfer case. It features a 3-position High-Neutral-Low selectable operation. High range has a 1:1 ratio for normal unaffected city and highway driving. The TacoBox will transform your transfer case into a 3-speed case, offering 2.56:1 stock low range, 2.28:1 Crawl Box low range, or a combined 5.84:1 double low range. Most people choose to upgrade to our 4.70:1 gear set, which provides the 2.56:1 stock low range, 4.70:1 Crawl Box low range, or a combined 12:1 double low range which is the Ultimate™️ setup."

Here's a simple table to show watch your reduction would be when each t-case is set to High or Low.

Stock case Crawlbox Reduction
H H 1:1 (a.k.a None)
H L 2.28:1 (or 4.7:1)
L H 2.56:1
L L 5.84:1 (or 12:1 with the 4.7's)
L N None, stupid...you're in Neutral! Razz
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Post by Ty Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:56 pm

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