CV questions

Out of curiosity:

If a CV breaks, then the front wheels will still turn and function right? You are just now in 2WD essentially because the power from the front differential will go through the broken CV, so the side still working doesn't get any power since it's NOT the path of least resistance right? There is the broken axle flopping around, but once removed you could still drive down the highway fine?

And if all of that is true, could you lock up the side of the differential with the broken CV so that all the power goes through the CV that's still attached? Or do some other modification to get at least some power through the remaining wheel (incase all of it was too much)?


I always see people saying how they blow so many CVs and what not, I've never had a CV go out, so was wondering what exactly happens and what you can do. And on that note, when/why will a CV fail? I've read some guys just hit a bad angle with everything so it goes out, but that's pretty vague obviously.

Yeah, once you remove the busted CV (leave the inner if you can so you don't lose diff fluid) you can roll around in 2wd still. If you put in manual hubs, you don't even have to remove the broken shaft - just flip your hub to unlocked and drive off.

If you're locked in front, then you'll get three wheel drive, but that's a recipe to break the other CV for sure, I wouldn't do it unless I HAD to, to get back to pavement.

It's angles and horsepower that kill a CV shaft. The recipe seems to be full articulation and/or full steering lock, and too much go juice. If you're going to hammer down, make sure you're not stuffed on either side and don't have the steering wheel cranked, and you probably won't ever break one. I never did. I think the guys that bust shafts all the time are too fond of the skinny pedal (lookin' at you, Ty ).

Do you carry the tools you'll need to change a CV, Sniv?

I have a full tool set. Unless it requires something out of the ordinary I think I'm golden.

Will you know if something is wrong with your CV right away? I've read where people say the boot is leaking, but unless you happened to be looking if it was leaking, would you know? Is it an all or nothing type of failure?

The earlier hubs have nuts that require a 54mm socket. I don't know if that's true for yours, but it'd be worth knowing beforehand .

If your boot is losing grease, it'll be obvious, it'll be flung all around your undercarriage. If the CV itself is starting to go, it'll tell you by clicking and popping and otherwise being cranky.

I think the axle nut takes a 35mm socket. I don't remember for sure w/o looking through my tool box.

Kevin wrote:It's angles and horsepower that kill a CV shaft. The recipe seems to be full articulation and/or full steering lock, and too much go juice. If you're going to hammer down, make sure you're not stuffed on either side and don't have the steering wheel cranked, and you probably won't ever break one. I never did. I think the guys that bust shafts all the time are too fond of the skinny pedal (lookin' at you, Ty ).

Wait A minute here!! I never broke a CV until I tried to drag myself off Gold Bar Rim with a busted rear R&P. That right there is another good way to bust a CV.

dutchman wrote:I think the axle nut takes a 35mm socket. I don't remember for sure w/o looking through my tool box.

It is 35mm for sure. I hunted one down a few months ago when I started dismantling my IFS.